![]() Liberally season each steak with salt and pepper. To prepare: About 40 minutes before cooking, remove the steak from the refrigerator and set aside, still wrapped, at room temperature.Ībout 10 minutes before cooking, unwrap the steak and trim it of any surrounding fat in excess of 1/4 inch thick. ![]() But on those nights when you need something a little extra dazzling, try a peppercorn rub, blue cheese-butter or bourbon steak sauce (recipes follow).Ĭoarse salt and freshly cracked black pepper to taste Sometimes the perfect steak is unadorned and subtly seasoned. And an innately chewy cut, such as a sirloin, should never be cooked beyond medium. are ruined by excessive heat and should be cooked using the relatively tame searing approach. Thick, dense steaks with substantial marbling can easily withstand the rigors - and occasional flare-ups - of the grill, but less hearty, more delicate steaks such as a filet mignon. First, match the cut with the cooking technique. It takes the right cut, the right cooking technique and the right amount of attentiveness to decipher when it's done to your liking.īut it's simpler than it sounds if you take it one step at a time. He oversees every order that comes out of his kitchen.Even having all the stars in alignment won't guarantee a perfect steak. “Each ingredient demands its own precise timing and heat intensity,” the chef says. So fine are the holes that smoke enters while liquid stays in. Arguinzoniz’s most famous invention is a laser-perforated pan for cooking risotto. Caviar? In a double-tiered lidded mesh pan, at 122 degrees and just until it starts sweating oil. Can an egg yolk be grilled? Yes, in a little ringed fine sieve with removable sides, which looks like a miniature cake pan. (Arguinzoniz scrapes the grills every day anyway, to remove the scent of old carbon char and any accumulated drippings.) Rather, he cooks the food in various sievelike baskets and pans he’s created. Very few ingredients are grilled directly on grates. The grills are powered by wood coal that Arguinzoniz prepares himself, twice a day, in two 750-degree ovens. This way, the ingredients’ distance from heat can be regulated with perfect precision. The grates move up and down during cooking through an ingenious system of tracks and pulleys controlled by a wheel. ![]() Lining the entire wall of his kitchen are six custom-made, stainless steel grills. Since the necessary tools didn’t exist, Arguinzoniz designed them himself. Taking grill cuisine to unexpected places required a whole new set of equipment. ![]() They arrived at the table barely heated through and improbably succulent, with a touch of wood smoke. A few years later, he divined a way of grilling fresh anchovies, sandwiching two tender little butterflied fish together, misting them with Txakoli spray and then cooking them for a nanosecond. Instead, he invented a meshlike stainless steel saucepan and positioned it high above the hot coals. Actually, Arguinzoniz didn’t try to toss them onto the grate either. And so, in the late ’90s, he did the impossible: He grilled angulas, which are so fragile and miniscule no sane chef would ever toss them onto the grate. “What if delicacies like foie gras or spiny lobster met the grill?” he’d fantasize. The flavors were charred and delicious but one-dimensional, and eventually, inspired by the prime ingredients served at the white-tablecloth restaurants he occasionally visited, he wanted more. Initially, Arguinzoniz served iconic Basque asador (grill-house) dishes: chuletas (bone-in rib eyes), whole sea bream, cogote de merluza (hake neck). ![]()
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